Kryolan Cosmetics Australia [DRAFT]
Kryolan was founded in Germany 66 years ago as a professional makeup and cosmetics company. In 1978 Marshal Caffyn, an Australian pharmacist, started to produce and offer the range to performers of film, stage and TV. More recently the company’s product has become highly sought after by the general beauty market.
Kryolan chose to relocate their literally ‘underground’ shop to a new space on Little Collins Street and commissioned Artillery to design the new space. The cultural market shift, history, science and functional requirements became the catalyst for informing the design process.
Kryolan Cosmetics Australia
Artillery Interior Architecture
Artillery's design team was led by Sonja Duric and consisted of Claudette Leeming, Gracie Coury, Sophie Lewis, Allan Hosking, and Ian Piggott.
Each lipstick is hand made in a handheld, metal, lipstick mould. It is this artisan approach that led to the “Craftsman” concept behind the design. The key aesthetic and functional elements of the project were handmade by craftsmen supported by contemporary processes. Machinery was in the minority.
The plaster on the bulbous ceiling was handmade in several large moulds and then carefully assembled and finished on site.
The chevron, herringbone, floor required attention to detail at every intersection when being laid.
A small, local joiner and furniture maker was selected to make the cabinetry.
Acrylic drawers housing contents of make-up palettes (e.g. discs of eye shadows and foundation) were custom designed and made.
Plaster was used in the biomorphic, suspended, mezzanine hanging over the retail floor. The shadows, movement and light created by the indentations, waves and bulbs dance quietly overhead whilst customers browse the colourful temptations of the shop. Biomorphic design is explored in the organic form of the bulbous mezzanine which also acts as an office/training facility above. Inspiration drawn from the natural environment and biology seemed to be a fitting metaphor for the science used to make the makeup.
Project Innovation / Need
Unlike any other make-up store in Melbourne, Artillery and Kryolan brainstormed ideas to determine the perfect “palette packing bar.” This bar, located at the rear of store is comprised of acrylic drawers housing discs of eye shadows, blush and foundation. All of the coloured disks are beautifully displayed and can be individually selected to create your own palette. Palettes are comprised of several disks and are specifically designed by the make-up artists to suit your needs and skin tone. This creates not only a very personal experience, but also creates a beautiful feature in the space.
The limited budget was an initial challenge with our design. Although complex in appearance, much research and development was required on the ceiling form by the designer and builder in order to achieve the impact within a limited budget. Virtual and real model-making were used to enable this.
Using a small, artisan joiner enabled the joinery to be 40% more cost effective than originally thought.
Graphics on the rear wall were used to emulate the palette drawers. Photographs of the drawers were taken and a 1:1 scale wallpaper was created and carefully matched with the drawers, in order to make the rear wall appear filled with makeup discs in drawers from top to bottom.
ESD was not only important to Artillery, but also to the client, who in addition to being a makeup maker and pharmacist was also a wine-maker with a successful vineyard on the Mornington Peninsula.
Careful material selection and building practices supplemented a sustainable approach.
Emission “0” board was selected for substrates in joinery. Joinery was designed for disassembly.
Sustainable timber was finished in low a VOC, water-based lacquer.
The bulbous, white ceiling was designed to promote light reflection onto the shop floor.
LEDs and metal halides were used to reduce energy consumption.
A builder was selected who focused on building sustainably and recycling all waste (though this was only limited to a small amount of material off cuts).
Using local craftsman greatly impacted on the sustainable approach behind the design.
Finally, the Fitout, although strong in character was designed to have a supporting role allowing the hero (the product) to change and evolve with market trends. The Fitout remains the constant.
This award recognises building interiors, with consideration given to space creation and planning, furnishings, finishes and aesthetic presentation. Consideration given to space allocation, traffic flow, building services, lighting, fixtures, flooring, colours, furnishings and surface finishes.